Monday 19 May 2014

Basing

While working on finishing off the models I've been picking away at for the last few months(...), it occurred to me that I hadn't really detailed what I am doing for the basing of my mini's. Maybe I did a while ago, but I took a pic of what my rough process is.

So I start with my standard base - either a FoW one or one from Warbases. I try to keep units all on the same type of base - so for example all the half tracks I have done have Warbases large size bases.

I've mentioned a few times my reasoning behind basing everything. A lot of the FoW models come moulded on bases and I feel that if one thing has a base on it, everything should. It rattles some internal cage of mine seeing Universal Carriers that look out of scale next to Shermans... purely because the UC are on a base.

The base also provided a better transport solution (magnets) and stops the track to track car park look. The one that one of Battlefronts 'rangers' tells me never happens but that I see on battle reports all the time.

Here's the photo:


The 'Dark Earth' is a acrylic resin from Vallejo (26.218) and is basically a dark grey colour. I apply this to a base that has been well scored in a zigzag pattern by a craft knife. Usual (recently) I have just been using a teaspoon to scoop out the amount I need and then roughly flatten it down. The nice thing about the resin is that it can be cut and trimmer as required when it's dry.

Once it's dry and trimmed, I paint it all Vallejo Model Color Flat Earth (70983). If I am spraying matt varnish around this time I will also give it a spray of that just to seal it. A tip I picked up from Paul, Davey and YD was that if you are using wooden bases you should varnish all of them - including the under side. This means if water should ever get into your mini's, the bases don't swell up and become ruined. 

For bases with infantry, I just press the infantry down, then cut out a rough rectangle that they will fit in. Superglue on the hole and then press the mini in.

Then I paint the bases of the infantry flat earth and let that dry. Then cover the top of the base in PVA and using my home made squirty bottle of static grass (a washing up liquid bottle with the stopper removed) I fire the static grass onto the bases with little puffs of air.

For vehicle bases I just PVA and static grass, then superglue the model onto the base.

The last stage is some dabs of PVA and then application of scrub bushes and flowers (currently from MiniNatur). I'm not one for piles of stones or the likes, as my men are fighting in well cultivated Normandy. Similarly I don't like ruins, rubble, etc. Although to be fair it is a bit daft when my tanks sit on a road with their grass bases - but I'm not quite at the madness of interchangeable bases depending on the tabletop terrain.....

5 comments:

  1. Like the logic on why all should be based. Tho have played/seen the parking lot tank battles. ..

    Rather annoying if u ask me.

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    Replies
    1. Yeah, repeating myself a bit but since I had all the bits out to work on I thought I'd cover it again! The bases just give that natural spacing as well.

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  2. Basing can make or break the paint job and look of an army, and having a consistent look on your bases is a big part of that. I think you've achieved an effective, consistent look with your basing that suits the context of your force. You've got a method to replicate the look too, so I'd say you've got all the bases covered! (excuse the pun) Cheers, Paul.

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  3. Thanks Paul, I've tried to keep everything standard - only new thing I'll be adding is some flowers... Need to see how they look before I decide on whether to apply them to all my previous bases...

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  4. For the infantry, I use the pumice as well. To save on cutting them out, I sticky tack the infantry onto the base when I apply the pumice and then pull the infantry off before the pumice sets so I have holes about the right size. Or you could push the minis onto the base before the pumice sets to create spots for them.

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